San Sebastián, known as Donostia in the local Basque language, is a seriously tasty city-break destination close to the border with France with a celebrated food culture. It's a compact city with three urban beaches, elegant architecture and spectacular Basque coastal scenery. The city is spread along a white-sand bay between Mount Urgull and Mount Igeldo, and visitors will remember the shape and style of the city before anything else.

What does the city have to offer? 

San Sebastián is worth visiting if you like coastal cities, food-focused travel, walkable neighbourhoods, interesting architecture and culture. It isn’t a massive place and you could theoretically walk the entire city without the need for transport. If you like beach walks, bars and museums without the need to hire a car, it’s a grand wee place. That said, there are trains and buses around town if you don’t feel the need to exercise your legs and also if you are planning on seeing various nearby beauty spots close to the city. 

For a short visit, two full days is enough to see La Concha, the Old Town, Gros, Monte Igeldo and at least one museum or coastal walk. A few more days on top of that are perfectly justified if you want a slower food-focused trip or a day trip to places such as Getaria, Zarautz, Hondarribia, Pasaia, the French Basque Country, which you can read about at this link or Bilbao, whose old town you can read about here as you would be getting off the Euskotren there. 

San Sebastián at a glance

If you want a quick look at ideas, have a glance down through our quick planning guide:

What activities are there in San Sebastián?

Walk around La Concha Bay to Peine del Viento

La Concha is the classic image of San Sebastián, with a curving urban beach, elegant promenade and classic white railings. It has views towards Santa Clara Island and the green slopes of Mount Igeldo on the left with Mount Urgull on the right. La Concha is the city’s great icon and one of Europe’s most famous urban beaches.

You would begin your promenade walk near City Hall and Alderdi Eder Gardens, which are just at the side of the beach, go along La Concha promenade, continue towards Ondarreta Beach, and finish at Peine del Viento, a work of art embedded in rock by Eduardo Chillida. This gives you a natural introduction to the city’s geography, with sea on one side, urban elegance on the other, and the mountains and island framing and adorning the bay.

Check out some beach art from La Concha Beach at this link, and you can read more about Chillida’s famous Wind Comb at this link.

Ondarreta Beach

Peine del Viento, Eduardo Chillada's Wind Comb, is one of San Sebastián’s most distinctive public artworks, and sits where Ondarreta begins near Mount Igeldo.

Ondarreta itself has a calmer feel than La Concha and is a good choice for families or travellers staying in Antiguo, with activities such as canoe hire, football, beach tennis and volleyball. We have seen surfers here while on our regular visits to the city, though we suspect that they are a small and elite bunch trying to avoid the more busy waves of Zurriola, on the other side of the old town. 

You can check Ondarreta beach out here at the city's official tourism website.

Explore the Parte Vieja, the Old Town

The Parte Vieja is the historic core of San Sebastián, located in the shadow of Mount Urgull between the port and the Urumea River. It is known for narrow streets, pintxo bars, Plaza de la Constitución, the Basilica of Santa María del Coro, the Church of San Vicente, the port, the Aquarium and San Telmo Museum.

This is also the hub of the city’s pintxo culture. The Old Town has a high concentration of bars, and it can be bustling and loud throughout its streets. For the actual experience of the locals, try doing the txikiteo, which is basically a bar crawl with food each time you stop, so your stomach will be well lined. Choose any bar in the old town really, we have no particular recommendations as they all seem to be good. The city and its citizenry maintain a high culinary level, so even lower quality at times is higher than many other places in the world. 

Keep an eye on the prices though as the big-street bars can charge about €4 for a glass of beer and the same for the pintxos, so trying the side-street options is definitely an idea. 

Take the Monte Igeldo funicular for the bay view

For the most recognisable view of San Sebastián, go to Monte Igeldo. The Igeldo funicular uses wooden carriages and dates from around 1912, making it the oldest funicular railway in the Basque Country.

The view from the top helps you understand the city, with Ondarreta and La Concha curving around the bay, Santa Clara Island sitting in the middle, and Mount Urgull rising beside the Old Town, protecting it from the lashing Cantabrian waves.

Cross to Gros and Zurriola Beach

Gros gives San Sebastián a different rhythm. The district is associated with surfing, younger cafés, bars, Kursaal, Sagüés and Zurriola Beach. Some consider it the city’s liveliest beach and sits beside the Kursaal building, the base of operations for the world-famous San Sebastián Film Festival, which is held in September.

Zurriola is better for a surf atmosphere than gentle swimming, and you can read about the beach more here. It's not as protected as the other two beaches, which are within a bay with Santa Clara Island somewhat protecting them, so the surf waves will be stronger and bigger here. 

Visit San Telmo Museum

San Telmo Museum is one of the strongest cultural stops in the city, especially if you want context on Basque society, history and identity. It sits near the Old Town and Mount Urgull, making it easy to combine with the Parte Vieja or a walk up the hill. San Telmo is housed in a former Dominican convent with impressive archaeology and art collections. You can read about the museum at this link. 

Visit the Aquarium by the port

San Sebastián Aquarium is close to the port and the Old Town, and we visited it a few years back. It is an excellent visit with underwater walkways and a recreation of the Cantabrian Sea. You might get nervous walking so close to the swimming sharks and flatfish, but you're perfectly safe. As you walk through the aquarium's tunnels which are surrounded from above and the sides by waters representing an Atlantic-Cantabrian seascape, you can feel the presence of the marine wildlife while feeling impressed by the sharks' resistance to temptation by not eating everything in sight. If you have young ones with you, or you are simply an admirer of the marine, this is an educational and colorful visit. 

You can read about the aquarium at this link. 

Walk up Mount Urgull

Mount Urgull rises above the Old Town and gives a more historical view than Monte Igeldo. It is an old military site with trails, forts and lookout points. If you want a short and not-too-taxing climb without leaving the city, this is the place. Most folks normally hike up to the viewpoint under the statue of Jesus. 

However, there are other routes on the hill, especially on the far side of the hill, overlooking the sea. It is here that you can find a hidden history. Back in 1813 and during the Napoleonic Wars, the British sacked San Sebastián when they should have been liberating the place, and 20 years later, British soldiers also came to fight in the First Carlist War, leaving a military cemetery on the side of the hill overlooking the sea. It is quite overgrown and not very well maintained, so its ancient look mixed with its isolated location in a forest overlooking the sea gives it an eerie feel. 

You can see and read a wee bit more about the military history of the city at the following post. 

Walk the full coastal route

For a simple, low-cost way to experience the city, walk the seafront from Zurriola to Ondarreta. There is a maritime route of around six kilometres along the shore, passing San Sebastián’s three main beaches of Zurriola, La Concha and Ondarreta.

This route really joins the dots between several major landmarks naturally, with Kursaal, the Urumea bridges, City Hall, La Concha promenade, Miramar, Ondarreta and Peine del Viento.

Anoeta Stadium

You might be surprised to know that in La Liga, the club known as Real is not that big one from Madrid (it's simply known as Madrid to La Liga fans), but is actually Real Sociedad from Donostia-San Sebastián. At the time of writing (late 2026), they are this season's holders of the Copa del Rey, so they are used to occasionally winning stuff, and you can see the Copa del Rey displayed in their trophy room. It is somewhat on the periphery of town, but you can walk it, though if you jump on the Euskotren at Amara, you will be there in 5 minutes. 

Where to stay in San Sebastián

There is definitely an eclectic set of accommodation options, ranging from noisy but handy to quiet but a little more out of the way. 

Centro and La Concha: best for first-time visitors

Stay here if you want the classic San Sebastián experience, with the beach promenade, elegant streets, easy walking access to the Old Town, and shopping and restaurants. It is convenient, attractive and simple for a short stay.

Parte Vieja: excellent for nightlife and pintxos

The Old Town is atmospheric and central. It is convenient for pintxos, the port, San Telmo, Mount Urgull and evening wandering. It is best for food-focused trips, nightlife and short stays, though it can be noisy, especially at weekends and during festivals, which is not a drawback for us at Tailtiu as we like a bit of movement, though others might like the peace and quiet of other parts of town.

Gros: a hub for surf, cafés and a younger feel

Gros is the area with Zurriola Beach, with its surf schools and cafés. It is also beside the imposing Kursaal centre, which is the main hub for the San Sebastián Film Festival. It is still walkable to the Old Town, but it has a slightly different feel to the La Concha side.

Antiguo and Ondarreta: best for a quieter stay

Antiguo, near Ondarreta and Monte Igeldo, can work well for families or travellers who want a quieter base. Antiguo is one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, with Ondarreta Beach and Peine del Viento contributing to its relaxed identity. 

We stayed in Antiguo a few years back and while it is a bit of distance from the heart of the city, it was quite easy to figure out the city bus system, which got us into the heart of things in 10 minutes. Antiguo is also close to Ondarreta beach and has its own character, not to mention bars and street life. 

We also stayed off-season and got a really good January deal. Figuring out the buses was useful as a half-hour walk, albeit a lovely seaside ramble, became an 8-10 minute bus ride which was equally lovely. 

Amara or Egia: practical bases near transport

These areas can be useful if you are arriving by train or bus, planning day trips, or looking beyond the most expensive central accommodation. Amara has the Euskotren station, and Euskotren functions throughout various parts of the Basque Country, with this station connecting to both Bilbao and on the other side, Hendaye in the French Basque Country. You can check out timetables and prices on the Euskotren at this link, and you can also check out our article about the joys of Euskotren journeys here. 

What to eat and drink in San Sebastián

San Sebastián is one of the most food-oriented cities you'll find, known as a world-famous gastronomic capital. Its tourist authorities highlight pintxos, local produce, markets, gastronomic societies, the local txakoli white wine, cider-house culture and Michelin-starred dining in and around the city.

Pintxos

Pintxos are small dishes, often a mouthful, generally eaten with a drink, and they are central to the city’s social life. The Old Town is the obvious starting point, but Gros and Centro are also there for less concentrated routes. The good thing about a pintxo trail is that you might choose three or four bars rather than trying to “complete” the Old Town, or try the local txikiteo custom of going to many places, though locals tend to drink small as they go to avoid falling over at the end of events. 

Local flavours to look for

Here’s a wee list to consider whenever you are thinking about, or with, your stomach. Basque cuisine is a mixture of seafood and inland farm produce, so there is a wide variety to choose from. We’ve tried most, or all, of these, and you will have a good time trying to get through them. 

• Anchovies 

• Hake, cod or grilled fish

• Txuleta-style steak

• Idiazabal cheese

• Basque cheesecake

• Txakoli, a sweet white wine from the nearby coastline

• Cider-house menus (sidrerías) are excellent and generally straightforward, typically offering a fixed-price menu of Txuleton steaks, cod and a local dessert, along with the cider.

• We've never been brave enough at Tailtiu to pay for a Michelin-starred restaurant, but we would advise you to book ahead and it is something on our bucket list, just to see what all the fuss is about. 

How to get to San Sebastián

Air

San Sebastián has several airport options. San Sebastián Airport is about 11 miles from the city centre, on the French border in the village of Hondarribia. It has mainly domestic Spanish flights, so if you are coming from abroad, it might be a good option for connection with Barcelona or Madrid. There is one international connection, which is with London City Airport. 

Bilbao Airport is around 70 miles away, Biarritz Airport around 28 miles away and Vitoria-Gasteiz Airport around 60 miles away. For international travellers, Bilbao Airport offers more routes depending on origin, season and airline schedules and as Biarritz also has good international connections, it is a relatively good option too. Bilbao and Biarritz are also good tie-ins if you want to visit somewhere else. 

Train

San Sebastián’s Estación del Norte, the Adif-Renfe train station, connects with cities including Madrid and Barcelona, while Euskotren links San Sebastián with coastal towns such as Zarautz and the French Basque Country at Hendaye. 

Bus

San Sebastián’s bus station, Donostia Geltokia, is beside the Adif-Renfe train station, and this is where you can arrive and leave by intercity coach. Lurraldebus has intercity coach routes involving Bilbao, Madrid, Barcelona, Santander, Asturias, Logroño, Pamplona, Bayonne, Biarritz and Paris.

Lurraldebus also serves as the interurban bus service for Gipuzkoa, and departs from various stops around the city. For day trips, buses may be more practical than trains depending on the destination, especially nearby villages. 

Car

A car is not necessary inside San Sebastián for most short stays. The city is walkable, and Dbus provides urban bus services. Dbus operates urban buses, accepts card payment directly on buses, and runs night buses known as Búhos (Owls) on Fridays, Saturdays and the eve of bank holidays.

Drivers should check parking, access restrictions and the Low-Emission Zone before arrival. The city centre has a Low-Emission Zone and encourages visitors to use park-and-ride, public transport, bicycles or walking. Ultimately, you will probably spend a lot of time tearing your hair out looking for parking spaces in the city centre. 

Best time to visit San Sebastián

May, June and September

These are likely to suit many visitors who want some R&R. It is pleasant for walking, less intense than peak summer, and good for food-focused travel. Weather is still variable on the Basque coast, so pack a light waterproof layer and maybe a jumper just in case. 

September is especially an interesting month as the world-famous film festival happens then, so if you are a fan of cinema, it's a good time to see the place and rub shoulders with the hoi polloi of the silver screen. 

July and August

Here we are at the height of summer so obviously these are the main beach months, so this can also mean higher accommodation prices, busier restaurants and more competition for central hotels, so keep an eye on availability and price. 

Donostia in the sunshine is truly glorious, and summertime is always special in the area. You can choose the city beaches, or head towards an outlying village to catch a few rays, not to mention sand between the toes. 

October to April

The city can still work well outside summer, especially for food, museums and atmospheric coastal walks. However, rain and wind are more likely, and a sunny beach plan might be out of place.

Nevertheless and like us, you might like the desolation of the sea in wintertime, and the quiet of the beaches, accompanied by the occasional dogwalker, is definitely something we and many others like. 

We have visited around Christmas, in January and many other less-sunny times of the year, which you can see from some of our pictures here, but it has never been disappointing as a result of a wee bit of bad weather. Just pack a jumper, jacket and umbrella, and sure you'll be grand. 

Good day trips from San Sebastián

Zarautz

Zarautz is known for its long beach and surf culture. The beach is about a mile and a half long, a bit more than the village, though Zarautz is maybe only about four or five streets deep, so it is a sizable enough place, but easily managed by walkers. 

For football fans, it is also the hometown of José Ángel Iribar, the legendary Athletic Bilbao goalkeeper, who also was the keeper for the Spanish national side and the Euskal Selekzioa side, which represents the Basque Country in international and club international friendly games. Yuri Berchiche, who currently plays for Athletic Bilbao, is also from the town. 

This is a very stylish and picturesque part of the country and if you like lying about beaches and lively seaside vibes out of the urban area, then this is the place for you. 

Getaria

The coastal fishing town of Getaria is associated with grilled fish and txakoli vineyards. It is also the hometown of Juan Sebastián Elkano, who during Ferdinand Magellan’s circumnavigation of the globe, eventually rose to command the ship and complete its mission. Magellan continues to get the credit, though it is Elkano who finished the job. 

This village is also the hometown of Cristóbal Balenciaga, who was the founding father of the Balenciaga clothing brand. There is a museum in town dedicated to him, and it contains many of his designs. 

Getaria sits on a peninsula which juts out into the Cantabrian Sea, so is very scenic, and you can get why Elkano fell in love with the sea, while Balenciaga might have gotten a lot of his aesthetic for beauty from the landscape. 

Zumaia

Zumaia is useful for travellers interested in the flysch coastline, cliffs and coastal geology. The Zumaia-Deba-Mutriku coastline has a landscape with more than 50 million years of geological history. This made the area perfect for filming parts of the Game of Thrones series, and parts of it were used for the Dragonstone scenes. Dragonstone Castle itself was based on CGI imposed over the San Juan de Gaztelugatxe hermitage island, which is westward on Bizkaia’s coastline, but various scenes on the shores of Dragonstone are actually in Zumaia. 

Hondarribia

Hondarribia is one of the most attractive day trips for architecture and food. It is a colourful fishing village with a well-preserved old part and imposing medieval walls. You can also take a boat over to the French Basque Country side of the Bidasoa River, where Hendaia is situated. 

It is easy to get to from San Sebastián as it is served by an interurban bus service going from Gipuzkoa Plaza and operated by Lurraldebus. This leafy wee plaza is a few streets away from La Concha Beach and between there, the Boulevard and the river, and the bus operator is Lurraldebus. 

French Basque Country

Hendaye, Biarritz, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Bayonne are possible from San Sebastián, especially for travellers interested in crossing into the French Basque Country. Euskotren will get you to Hendaye and SNCF will whisk you quickly between the other three coastal French Basque towns. 

These towns are spectacular sights, full of small fashion shops, restaurants, and of course, surf and beach culture. 

The best thing for anyone staying in San Sebastián would be to do a day trip to Hondarribia and take the aforementioned boat over the river to Hendaye (Hendaia in the Basque language). An independent trip, or follow-on as part of a road or rail trip to this part would also be a decent option as the French SNCF network services these towns, and takes you up through France, through Dax, the city of Bordeaux and eventually to Paris. 

Practical tips for visiting San Sebastián

Use both names: San Sebastián and Donostia

You will see both Spanish and Basque names. Donostia is the Basque name, whereas San Sebastián is the Spanish name. Using both will help you recognise transport signs, maps and official tourism materials, as well as endearing you to the local Basques.

Book accommodation early

San Sebastián is compact, coastal and popular. Central accommodation near La Concha, Parte Vieja and Gros can book up or rise in price during festivals, weekends and summer, so book early! 

Do not over-plan pintxos

A rigid restaurant list can make the evening less enjoyable. Choose an area, keep the route short, and leave room for improvisation. Even if the route is short, there are a lot of places to choose from. 

Pack for changeable weather

Even in warmer months, the Basque coast can bring sudden rain or wind. A light waterproof jacket and maybe a jumper are good to carry, though given recent years and Super-Niños, t-shirts and suncream are more often necessary.

Check beach flags and tides

Zurriola is more surf-oriented than La Concha or Ondarreta. Always follow local flags, lifeguard guidance and sea-condition notices. You are on the Cantabrian Sea, so a bit of stormy weather has been known to suddenly present itself. 

Walk when possible 

The city’s main visitor areas are close enough to combine on foot. La Concha, Parte Vieja, the port, Mount Urgull, Gros and Zurriola are all walkable from each other. 

Get a travel card

As we live in Bilbao, we normally use the Barik travel card, which is primarily for transport in Bizkaia, but is accepted on various forms of transport around the other provinces of the Basque Autonomous Community. In Gipuzkoa, there is the Mugi card, and can be bought for €5 at authorized local shops, kiosks, tobacconists, and bookshops displaying the Mugi symbol. 

These travel cards reduce the fare you are paying on the buses or the Euskotren, or the various other means of transport which accept them. For instance, funicular lifts tend to accept them, and both tourists and local folks avail of these to see the sights and get around.

You can see more about the Mugi at this link. 

Think before hiring a car

A car can help for rural day trips, but it is often unnecessary inside San Sebastián. Parking and Low-Emission Zone rules should be checked before arrival. The other thing is that if you are going to visit an outlying village, there are buses and trains to get you there, and they aren’t massive places either. 

A few ‘frequently askeds’ about San Sebastián

How many days do you need in San Sebastián?

Two full days is enough to get to know the most touristy parts of the city. Three days is better if you want to see one of the nearby villages, a slower or more complete food tour or time for both museums and coastal walks. Personally, we would stay the full week, despite living only an hour or so away! There is plenty to do and see, and the atmosphere of the city is relaxed alongside plenty of movement and life. 

Is San Sebastián expensive?

It can be, especially for central accommodation and high-demand restaurant bookings. Prices vary by season and availability for hotels or pensiones. 

Food and drink has also gone up in the post-COVID era and never really come back down anywhere. The same can be said for San Sebastián and a beer can cost about €4 and an accompanying pintxo the same. You could shop around as there are one or two smaller places that offer deals. You might think the smaller and less fancy places are of a lower quality but this isn’t really the case as there is a certain high standard in all of the Basque Country when it comes to cuisine. 

Could you, or should you combine Bilbao and San Sebastián in one trip?

We at Tailtiu live in Bilbao, which is larger, more urban, with a lot of museums and ingenious post-industrial architecture recycled from the city's past as a major port, shipbuilder and manufacturing hub. San Sebastián is smaller, right on the coast, so beach and seaside walks, along with a coastal hill walk, are right there whereas Bilbao’s walks will be riverside, so take your pick of what you prefer. Both places are great for food-focused breaks, though San Sebastián has the greater culinary fame, not to mention the Michelin Stars, for that. All that said, you might pay a little less in Bilbao for everything.

Many travellers combine both and we would recommend exactly that. They both have their unique character and they are close enough to each other to visit in one holiday. It just depends on whether you prefer to stay on the coast or a little upriver. 

You could visit San Sebastián as a day trip from Bilbao, but it is better and much more enjoyable as an overnight stay. A day trip can cover La Concha, the Old Town and a pintxo lunch, but it leaves little time for Monte Igeldo, Gros, museums or a relaxed evening.

You could also get there on the Euskotren, which has spectacular views of the two Basque provinces of Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa, and leaves you in the city at Amara Station, which is in Easo Plaza, another hotspot for bars and restaurants. 

Do you need a car in San Sebastián?

Usually not. The main city sights are walkable, and local buses cover urban routes. A car may help for rural areas, but it can be inconvenient for parking and city-centre access.

What is the best area to stay in San Sebastián?

For a first visit, the streets around Centro and La Concha are the most convenient choice. Parte Vieja is best for pintxos and nightlife, and we have regularly stayed there. Gros is good for surfing and cafés, and Antiguo and Ondarreta are great for a quieter stay. We must highlight that while San Sebastián has lots to do, it is not big and is generally walkable, or a short bus ride at most of you need to move a wee bit more quickly, so all of these areas are relatively convenient. 

Is San Sebastián good for families?

Yes. La Concha and Ondarreta are excellent for beach time, the Aquarium is close to the Old Town, and the Monte Igeldo funicular is another family-friendly activity. There is also a little tourist train that does the city tour, so there is plenty for the young ones too. 

The Final Plan

San Sebastián is a great city and our favourite way of enjoying it has been to stay somewhere close to the centre, sometimes in the old town, la Parte Vieja, or in another area called Antiguo. The word antiguo also means old, so be sure not to get confused over the two as Antiguo is just a little off-centre, though it is closer to a lot of things like the beaches, the funicular and Chillida’s sculptures. It is also well connected with buses. The area around Amara Station and Plaza Easo is also lively, and scenic in a stylish urban way. 

Wherever you stay from these places, you will be close to a lot of life and interesting places. Just make sure to take it all slowly, as more than a few days in this spectacular city are more than justified!